The Evie Crochet Cropped Cardigan ~ Free Pattern
Learn how to make an Easy Crochet Cropped Cardigan that is perfect for the spring and summer months. The Evie Cardigan is oversized, cropped, and made in one piece using simple stitches.
Read through my inspiration and design process, scroll down for the Free Pattern or purchase the Full Color coded Printable PDF Here!
Inspiration + Design
The Evie Crochet Cropped Cardigan is the sister sweater to The Remi Cardigan. It uses the same stitch pattern and the same construction method. The main difference between these two cardigans is that the Remi is worked holding two strands of yarn together, making a thick and squishy fabric. While the Evie uses just one Dk weight strand, which creates a very light weight and airy fabric.
This Crochet Cropped Cardigan is created using just the double crochet stitch. Making small modifications to this simple stitch such as working all stitches in the Back Loop Only and crossing the double crochet stitches, not only creates a beautiful and effortless texture, but allows this whole Cardigan to be worked up in just a few days.
The Yarn
For the Evie Crochet Cropped Cardigan, I used my ”go to” favorite yarn, Lion Brand Coboo Yarn. It is a cotton/ bamboo blend category 3 light weight Dk yarn. This yarn is my favorite because it creates an incredibly soft and breathable fabric that is perfect for spring and summer makes.
Shop all 20 colors of Coboo here!
Pattern
~Purchase the Color Coded Printable PDF Here.
~Save it to your Ravelry Here.
To Sum it up:
The Evie Crochet Cropped Cardigan, is an airy spring cardigan that will pair perfectly with all your favorite outfits. It is made up of simple double crochet stitches and twisted double crochet stitches to create a unique texture. From a cozy day on the couch, to a night out on the town, to your everyday wear, this sweater is truly something that you need in your wardrobe.
Yarn
Below is the approximate yardage for all sizes:
| Size | XS | S | M | L | XL | 2XL | 3XL | 4XL | 5XL |
| Approx Yds | 850-900 | 900-950 | 950-1000 | 1100-1150 | 1150-1200 | 1300-1350 | 1350-1400 | 1500-1550 | 1550-1600 |
Notions
-Size I (5.5 mm) Hook
-Yarn Needle
Gauge
13 Dc and 7 Dc rows worked in Blo= 4”
Sizing
This Crochet Cropped Cardigan is made to be oversized with approximately 6-8” of positive ease. The measurements are Finished garment sizes. When choosing your size, find the bust measurement that equals approximately 6-8” more than your actual bust measurement and make that size.
| Size | XS | S | M | L | XL | 2X | 3X | 4X | 5XL |
| Bust | 36” | 40” | 44” | 48” | 52” | 56” | 60” | 64” | 68” |
| Length | 19.5” | 20” | 20” | 20.5” | 20.5” | 21” | 21” | 21.5” | 21.5” |
Abbreviations Used
Ch- Chain
Yo- Yarn Over
St- Stitch
Sl St- Slip Stitch
Blo- Back Loop Only
Fdc- Foundation Double Crochet
Dc- Double Crochet
Sc- Single Crochet
Special Stitches
Crossed Double Crochet in Blo– Skip the next stitch, Dc into the following stitch. Then working behind the Dc stitch that you just made, Dc into the previously skipped stitch.
Pattern Notes
-Sweater is worked from the bottom up, in one piece and then divided for armholes.
-ALL Stitches are worked in the Back Loop Only.
-Sleeves are worked from cuff up in TURNED rounds.
-Ch 2 does NOT count as stitches throughout.
-Pattern is worked in a 4 row repeat. Repeat as follows 2 Dc rows in Blo, then 2 Dc “X” rows in Blo
-Total Stitches are indicated between [ ].
-The sizing guide follows size XS(S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL). E.g. “Fdc 118(130, 144, 156, 170, 182, 196, 208, 222)” means Fdc 118 for XS, Fdc 130 for Small, Fdc 144 for Medium, Fdc 156 for Large, Fdc 170 for XL, Fdc 182 for 2XL, Fdc 196 for 3XL, Fdc 208 for 4XL, Fdc 222 for 5XL. If there is only one number, it applies to all sizes.
The Evie Crochet Cropped Cardigan
Sizes Written XS(S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL)
Row 1: Fdc 118(130, 144, 156, 170, 182, 196, 208, 222). Turn.
*If you are uncomfortable with the Fdc, you can Ch 120(132, 146, 158, 172, 184, 198, 210, 224), Dc in the 3rd Ch from the hook and in each Ch across*
Row 2: Ch 2. Working in the Blo, Dc in the first St, and each St across. Turn. [118(130, 144, 156, 170, 182, 196, 208, 222) Dc]
Row 3: Ch 3. Working in the Blo, Dc in the first St. *Skip the next St, Dc in the Blo of the 3rd St. Then going behind the Dc you just made, Dc in the Blo of the skipped St. (one X created).* Repeat from * to * across, until you get to the last St. Dc in the Blo of the last St. Turn. [118(130, 144, 156, 170, 182, 196, 208, 222) Dc]
Row 4: Ch 3. Working in the Blo, Dc in the first St. *Skip the next St, Dc in the Blo of the 3rd St. Then going behind the Dc you just made, Dc in the Blo of the skipped St. (one X created).* Repeat from * to * across, until you get to the last St. Dc in the Blo of the last St. Turn. [118(130, 144, 156, 170, 182, 196, 208, 222) Dc]
Row 5: Ch 2. Working in the Blo, Dc in the first St, and each St across. Turn. [118(130, 144, 156, 170, 182, 196, 208, 222) Dc]
Repeat rows 2-5 until you have a total of 20 rows.
Do Not Finish off. This is where we will split for the arm holes. Row numbers will restart for simplicity.
Panels will be divided as follows
| Size | Left Front | Back | Right Front |
| XS | 28 | 60 | 28 |
| S | 32 | 64 | 32 |
| M | 36 | 72 | 36 |
| L | 38 | 80 | 38 |
| XL | 42 | 86 | 42 |
| 2XL | 44 | 92 | 44 |
| 3XL | 48 | 98 | 48 |
| 4XL | 52 | 104 | 52 |
| 5XL | 54 | 112 | 54 |
First Front Panel
With working yarn still attached
Row 1: Ch 2. Working in the Blo, Dc in the first St, and each of the next 27(31, 35, 37, 41, 43, 47, 51, 53) St. Leaving the remaining of the stitches unworked. Turn. [28(32, 36, 38, 42, 44, 48, 52, 54) Dc]
Row 2: Ch 2. Working in the Blo, Dc in the first St, and each St across. Turn. [28(32, 36, 38, 42, 44, 48, 52, 54) Dc]
Row 3: Ch 3. Working in the Blo, Dc in the first St. *Skip the next St, Dc in the Blo of the 3rd St. Then going behind the Dc you just made, Dc in the Blo of the skipped St. (one X created).* Repeat from * to * across, until you get to the last St. Dc in the Blo of the last St. Turn. [28(32, 36, 38, 42, 44, 48, 52, 54) Dc]
Row 4: Repeat row 3.
Repeat rows 1-4 until you have a total of 13(14, 14, 15, 15, 17, 17, 18, 18) rows.
Finish off leaving a long tail for seaming shoulders.
Back Panel
Sizes XS, S, 2XL, 3XL, & 5XL – with your sweater laying in front of you and the first front panel on your right side, skip the first open St from row 20. Join yarn in the next open St.
Sizes M, L, XL, & 4XL – with your sweater laying in front of you and the first front panel on your right side, join yarn in the first open St from row 20.
Row 1: Ch 2. Working in the Blo, Dc in the first St, and each of the next 59(63, 71, 79, 85, 91, 97, 103, 111) St. Leaving the remaining of the stitches unworked. Turn. [60(64, 72, 80, 86, 92, 98, 104, 112) Dc]
Row 2: Ch 2. Working in the Blo, Dc in the first St, and each St across. Turn. [60(64, 72, 80, 86, 92, 98, 104, 112) Dc]
Row 3: Ch 3. Working in the Blo, Dc in the first St. *Skip the next St, Dc in the Blo of the 3rd St. Then going behind the Dc you just made, Dc in the Blo of the skipped St. (one X created).* Repeat from * to * across, until you get to the last St. Dc in the Blo of the last St. Turn. [60(64, 72, 80, 86, 92, 98, 104, 112) Dc]
Row 4: Repeat row 3.
Repeat rows 1-4 until you have a total of 13(14, 14, 15, 15, 17, 17, 18, 18) rows.
Finish Off
Second Front Panel
Sizes XS, S, 2XL, 3XL, & 5XL – with your sweater laying in front of you and the first front panel and back panel on your right side, skip the first open St from row 20. Join yarn in the next open St.
Sizes M, L, XL, & 4XL – with your sweater laying in front of you and the first front panel and back panel on your right side, join yarn in the first open St from row 20.
Row 1: Ch 2. Working in the Blo, Dc in the first St, and each of the last 27(31, 35, 37, 41, 43, 47, 51, 53) St. Turn. [28(32, 36, 38, 42, 44, 48, 52, 54) Dc]
Row 2: Ch 2. Working in the Blo, Dc in the first St, and each St across. Turn. [28(32, 36, 38, 42, 44, 48, 52, 54) Dc]
Row 3: Ch 3. Working in the Blo, Dc in the first St. *Skip the next St, Dc in the Blo of the 3rd St. Then going behind the Dc you just made, Dc in the Blo of the skipped St. (one X created).* Repeat from * to * across, until you get to the last St. Dc in the Blo of the last St. Turn. [28(32, 36, 38, 42, 44, 48, 52, 54) Dc]
Row 4: Repeat row 3.
Repeat rows 1-4 until you have a total of 13(14, 14, 15, 15, 17, 17, 18, 18) rows.
Finish off leaving a long tail for seaming shoulders.
Seaming the shoulders
With your sweater laying in front of you, fold the left panel over the back panel and your right panel over the back panel.
It should be noted that there is no Right Side or Wrong side to this cardi as both sides look the same. So it does not matter which side you do the seam on.
You should line up your stitches to ensure you sew the shoulders evenly.
For example, if your front panel is 28 stitches wide, you will seam up to the 28th stitch of the back panel on both sides.
Using your yarn needle and yarn tails mattress seam the shoulder pieces to the back piece along the black line.
Sleeves (Make 2)
Cuff
Row 1: Ch 13. Sc in the second Ch and in each Ch across. Turn. [12 Sc]
Row 2: Ch 1. Sc in the Blo across. Turn. [12 Sc]
Repeat row 2 until you have a total of 24(25, 25, 28, 28, 31, 31, 34, 34) rows of ribbing.
Do not fasten off.
You will now be connecting the two short ends of the cuff by slip stitching them together.
Fold the cuff with the short sides together (row 1 & row 24(25, 25, 28, 28, 31, 31, 34, 34). Going through both loops on each end of the band, Sl St the edges together. (12 Sl St)
Ch 1 and flip the band to where the seam is now on the inside of the band and turn your cuff to face you.
You will now start working the main portion of the sleeves
Round 1: 2 Sc in the first St (where your Ch 1 is) and in each stitch around. Join with a Sl St to first Sc. [50(52, 52, 58, 58, 64, 64, 70, 70) Sc]
***This portion of the sleeves is worked in TURNED rounds. Join at the end of each round with a Sl St and then TURN your work so that your next round will be worked in the opposite direction. ***
Round 2: Ch 2. Skip the First St, Dc in the Blo of the 2nd St. Then going behind the Dc you just made, Dc in the Blo of the skipped St. (one X created). *Skip the next stitch, Dc in Blo of the next St. Then going behind the Dc you just made, Dc in the Blo of the skipped St*. Repeat from * to * around. Join with a Sl St to the first Dc. Turn. [50(52, 52, 58, 58, 64, 64, 70, 70) Dc]
Round 3: Repeat round 2. [50(52, 52, 58, 58, 64, 64, 70, 70) Dc]
Round 4: Ch 2. Working in the Blo, Dc in the first St, and each St around. Join with a Sl St to the first Dc. Turn. [50(52, 52, 58, 58, 64, 64, 70, 70) Dc]
Round 5: Repeat round 4.
Repeat rounds 2-5 until you have a total of 27(28, 28, 29, 29, 30, 30, 31, 31) rows.
Finish off leaving a long tail for attaching sleeves.
Attaching sleeves
Turn your sweater and your sleeves which ever way you choose is wrong side out. Line up your sleeve seam with the under side of the armhole and mattress seam around the arm hole.
Turn your sweater right side out.
Collar
Turn your sweater so that the Right side front panel is facing you. Attach yarn in the bottom right corner of your sweater.
Row 1: Sc evenly around the edges of the first front, around the neckline, and back down the second front. Make sure to use the same amount of Sc on both sides of the sweater. When you reach the bottom corner of the Left front panel, Ch 1 and Turn.
***The amount of Sc stitches around does not matter, a good rule is to place 2 Sc St in the edge of each of the rows. You can also adjust the collar width by doing more or less rows of Sc
Row 2-7: Sc in each stitch around.
Tie off, tuck in those ends and enjoy your new Evie Cardigan!
Make sure to pin this pattern for later, and if you do make one tag me @Cactus.and.lace on Instagram and use the hashtag #CactusandlaceDesigns . I can’t wait to see your Evie Cardigans, and I would love to share your pics! 🌵
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